The smell is an important criterion when inspecting dried ham. The ham trier (1) is used for this, an awl-shaped tool made from the fibula of a horse, which is porous and therefore absorbs the odors.
The horse bone is inserted into the ham in certain places and the smell is then sniffed by the inspector, who tastes the aromas of the ham in the throat. [MOT]
(1) SELLENS: 203 shows a hand tool with the same purpose but with a stem. The material is not mentioned. No other English equivalent found. In French the Latin word spilatula is used. Italians speak of 'ago d'osso di cavallo'.